From Wikipedia - "A Dolman - from Turkish dolaman "robe" is a type of clothing. Originally, the term referred to a long and loose garment with narrow sleeves and an opening in the front.
Dolman was also a favourite style of mantle in the 1870s and 80's, worn by fashionable women. It was often cleverly cut from shawl fabric."
Knitting the Dolman sweater for Nihon Vogue has been a long journey. Because the front and back is knit with sleeves attached to the body, it seems to take almost forever to knit a row from cuff to cuff. I likened it to driving west to east across Montana - a seemingly never ending adventure! My preference was for a "limited" arch underneath the arm to keep the "bat wing-y-ness" to a minimum. In class we first drafted the pattern in our design notebook at quarter scale rather than lifesize. Other than the neckline shaping, the front and the back of the sweater is essentially the same. I used a handpainted yarn in several shades of green with a slip stitch pattern to break up the potential for color pooling or striping. My desire was for the sweater to remind me of a hike through the Hoh Rain Forest but Arlene told me she thought it looked like Army camoflage! The front part of the sweater is split 1/4 down the middle to incorporate a Henley/placket design with buttons.
The process for designing a Dolman sweater is to extend the sleeve from the shoulder point on the drafted design to the wrist point. Lines for 1/2 of the upper arm measurement, 3/5 of the arm length (elbow point) are drawn and connected to the body. The depth of the arch is designed through personal preference after the sleeve ease is added. The stitch increases for the Dolman arch from the body to the sleeve is accomplished by crocheting a yarn chain and then performing a short rowing technique to pick up the appropriate number of stitches from this chain for each side of the sweater. Each sleeve is completed by adding the total number of stitches on the bottom edge of the sleeves calculated by using row and stitch gauge, adding the correct number of stitches to form a triangular wedge from the cuff to the top of the sleeve, and then doing short rows in the large triangular section from the neck, top of cuff and shoulder. The green stitch markers in the photo show the 5 stitch segments for short rowing. I have definitely gotten better at understanding and executing short rows while knitting this sweater! The front and back of the sweater are joined at the sleeves by 3 needle bind off or a weaving Kitchener like stitch (if the pattern is stockinette). I have finished the front and back, joined the top sleeves together, put ribbing on the bottom, seamed up the sides, and knit in the neckband. I still have to sew up the bottom sleeve seam (to be done in the next class), knit the placket ribbing button band, sew on buttons, and knit cuff ribbing. I fear the sleeves on my Dolman sweater may be way too long for my liking. Not sure where I went wrong because the stitch gauge is spot on, but obviously I goofed somewhere. Alas, with the way this sweater is constructed, simply cutting off the bottom of each sleeve won't work ( I confess, yes, I have amputated sweater sleeves in the past!) We'll see what the end result is like. My youngest sister (her arms are longer than mine) may be getting another sweater after all. The Dolman sweater has been a fascinating experience from the start. I'm happy to have done it, but it likely isn't going to be a project I would eagerly repeat anytime soon. If ever.
RAGLAN SWEATER
From Wikipedia - "A raglan sleeve is a type of sleeve whose distinguishing characteristic is to extend in one piece fully to the collar, leaving a diagonal seam from armpit to collarbone. It is popular in sports and exercise wear, and named after the 1st Baron Raglan, probably because it was designed to fit his coat for the arm lost in the Battle of Waterloo".
Naomi has a fantastic description on her blog on the use of geometry during the design of the Raglan sweater. The Raglan begins like the Dolman, meaning the sleeves are extended from the shoulder point. The Raglan utilizes 1/3 the measurement of neck curve to form an isosceles triangle. The line from the neck bisecting the base of the triangle eventually forms the decrease edge for the front, back and sleeves of the Raglan sweater. The purpose of this sweater is for us to learn how to exactly match the pattern at the diagonal seams where the front joins the sleeves and where the back joins the sleeves. Jean wanted us to chose to match the stitch pattern or match stripes, ie vertical or horizontal pattern. She said it was difficult to do both at the same time. For a change, I went the easier route and chose to match horizontally. 
I did a fair isle band at the bottom of the front, back and sleeve cuffs and then used a very simple Fibonacci combination of 2 stripes in black, 3 stripes in gray for the rest of each section. This decision was prompted by my declaration of using ONLY stash yarn for Year Two Nihon Vogue projects. I didn't have enough of the black yarn to do 2 stripes of each color, so I had to increase the percentage that the gray yarn was used. With the 3 stripes of gray, it has been amusing to see if the gray yarn is on the proper side of the knitting when I have to increase on a row. Meaning most of the time "yes", and some of the time "no". Jean instructed us to knit each piece separately up to the armhole and then do the decreases as calculated, and shaping to the neckline. Each piece should have the decreases done at the same time so as to not make a mistake. Like the Dolman, the Raglan is not tolerant of mistakes. We will be sewing the sweater together in the next class. So far I have completed 3/4 of each piece and am enjoying knitting Raglan much more than Dolman.
I'm not sure this snow is a wintry wonderland or just a wintry mess. Icy road conditions combined with hills in the Pacific Northwest means driving can be treacherous. Another big storm with wind gusts up to 80 mph is expected later in the afternoon and tonight. Two years ago a similar storm blew through and we (along with over one million of our closest friends) were without power for nearly a week. I'm planning to hunker down, make crab cakes, drink hot choocolate and knit. 
After checking into the Paramount Hotel in the Pearl District, we walked to the Button Emporium and Ribbonry. A small store boasting hundreds of buttons and ribbons. I could have stayed there poking through the buttons for hours. Scottie found some magnificent jeweled buttons that were perfect for her Nihon Vogue gathered sleeve sweater. 
We then went over to Knit Purl yarn store which sponsored the Catherine Lowe workshop. It was a wonderful store stocked with a wide variety of yarn that I haven't seen elsewhere - Solveig Hisdal kits and sweaters, Catherine Lowe silk blend yarns marketed in austere treasure boxes, a entire wall of Koigu colors. We met a delightful woman who had also arrived for the workshop - Jan divides her time between homes in Whitefish, Montana and Jacksonville, Florida. We invited her to join us for dinner at Jake's Seafood for a fabulous meal. Easy to tell why that restaurant is a long standing Portland institution! On the walk back to the hotel, we were quite amused to come upon a holiday meal by LaBrie Rich in the window of Knit Purl. Upon closer inspection we realized that the display was created using felted pieces and roving - from the turkey carrots, butter, bread rolls, salt and pepper inside shakers, gravy, cranberries, lattice pie, sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes, candles, and clock on the adjacent wall. If you look closely at the wallpaper you may be able to make out the parking meters, fire hydrants, birds and rodents disguised as damask. It was all so marvelous.
On Saturday, navigationally challenged Scottie found her way to class and Arlene and I went out to explore the best of what Portland had to offer. We first went to the Contemporary Art Museum whose latest exhibit featured ordinary household items turned into art. Zippers, combs, teacups, melted plastic soldiers, lazer cut plastic jugs, lipstick tubes, felt tip pen caps and spools of thread had all been turned into various works of art. The gift shop featured a non-functional spinning wheel out of blown glass - mesmerizing but extremely expensive. We then went to the Arts & Crafts outdoor market which had dozens of booths selling wooden items, ceramics, jewelry, clothing, pet items etc. I purchased a "handbag" made out of reclaimed/recycled front and back covers of a Life "World Library" book on Eastern Europe titled "Czechoslovakia, Hungary, Poland" Both Rob's and mine family roots go back to parts of Eastern Europe long, long ago. For more of Mugwump's creations go to: 
Saturday night we had the pleasure of Catherine Lowe joining us for dinner at a nearby Italian restaurant. She is a fascinating person - Literature academic turned knitwear designer and instructor who maintains her passion for writing. Her work is impeccable and meticulous. Arlene has taken some of her workshops in the past and Scottie raved about the current weekend workshop. On Sunday, Arlene and I explored most of downtown Portland. Walked along the river, enjoyed the many parks, rode the light rail, had pastrami sandwiches at Kenny and Zuke's deli, tried on $800 sweaters at a fancy boutique, lingered in a gadget filled cooking store, sipped hot cocoa at a store selling nothing but chocolate, admired modern implements at Canoe. I purchased some some bunny blend (Angora Rabbit) yarn at Knit Knot Studio and some Lucy Neatby DVD's at Dublin Bay Knitting Company. Lots of shopping as I did my ultimate best to prop up the sagging economy! Not much knitting completed except on the train. I have a lot of Nihon Vogue projects to catch up on. I'm already behind! Yikes.
The puffy sleeve is created by taking a standard fitted sleeve pattern and then pivoting the sleeve cap area at either the elbow or underarm to create an additional section on the pattern that provides an additional section to knit and subsequently gather when seaming to the body. This creates the puffy sleeve effect. I am designing a pink sweater-dress for a size 2 child incorporating puffy sleeves since a puffy sleeve sweater for myself will not be welcome in my closet.
Naomi came to class draped in the most exquisite lace shawl I have ever laid eyes on. It was a gift from Ruth Sorensen of Denmark, who was a house guest of Naomi's earlier in the year. What an incredible gift. Naomi is an accomplished lace knitter so I know she appreciates the fastidious work and time commitment that goes into the making of such delicate, stupendous treasure. I love knitters! 
My Saturday morning was filled by a traditional and unforgettable boat excursion along the Bosphorus. The curling strait separates Asia from Europe and connects the Black Sea to the Marmara Sea. Starting out from Eminonu one can see the Grand Church - Hagia Sophia, spires of the Blue Mosque and fortresses. On the sea shore edge of a park stands the famous Ciragan Palace refurbished in 1874 by Sultan Abdulaziz, and now restored as a luxury hotel and billed as one of the world's most expensive places to spend a night. The Bosphorus Bridge, claims status as one of the world's largest suspension bridges and is a juxtapostion with Istanbul's traditional architecture. I was perfectly content to see the bridge from a distance far below and not have to drive over it!
In the afternoon following the cruise, I went to the Spice Market, a sensory delight that cannot be adequately described by mere words. Mounds of pungent spices, dried fruits and nuts were in abundance within a market that was established during the late 1500's. It was an amazing experience and not one I will soon forget.
Knitting knows no language bounds and I encountered a few knitters absorbed in the art at outdoor markets and parks. This woman was using painfully long needles to knit a scarf in an intricate stitch pattern. I suspect Addi Turbo circular knitting needles have not found their way to Turkey yet! An intelligent, vivacious colleague, Pinar picked me up and took me on a tour of Ortakoy which is a popular area for restaurants, nightclubs and architecture. We had delicious baked potatoes topped with cheese, peas, corn, cous cous and several other unidentifiable ingredients. A table featuring hand knitted baby sweaters and creative, decorated baby booties was just one of many showing handcrafted goods at a weekend bazaar in the neighborhood. 33 hours later I was back home in Seattle. Always good to go, always better to get home.
Most of my business meetings were in the Northeastern part of the city. Late in the afternoon one day, a colleague and I went over the Chain Bridge to Castle Hill to see the Royal Palace, and Matthias Church. Despite the gloomy weather we could see the huge Parliament Building on the other side of Danube River, described as a neogothic jewel. I would like to come back someday and explore more of the city and go to some of the museums. The city is inviting and the people are very friendly.
On the flight from the US I had begun working on Nihon Vogue, Year Two, Project 1. I only had two projects on needles and was in a panic the night before my trip figuring out what to take with me. I am almost done with the Forest Canopy Shawl and have one sock on size 2 needles. Even though the Nihon class doesn't begin until early October, I wanted to use the time on the flights to get a jump start on the first project. The requirement is to knit set in sleeves that are gathered at the top and "puff up". Hmm. Even though it is the current fashion rage, it is something I would not personally wear. So, I am knitting a child's size garment that is a re-compilation of a Debbie Bliss smock cardigan. I am changing the pattern a bit and then redesigning the drop sleeves to be set in. After business meetings in the morning today I am flying to Istanbul with a 5 hour layover in Frankfurt... so will have plenty of time to work on my computer, read or knit.
