Istanbul, Turkey

Turkey is a country with an amazingly rich cultural and natural heritage. Instead of arriving in Istanbul at 9:30 pm on Wednesday evening, my flight landed at 4:00 am on Thursday morning. The flight was unable to land as scheduled due to a ferocious storm and after circling for hours whilst running low on fuel, we were diverted to Ankara. Finally got clearance to land back in Istanbul and once there, I got ripped off by the taxi driver who charged me twice what the typical fare should have been to my hotel. Istanbul is a beautiful, fascinating, and diverse city at the crossroads of East and West as it is the only city straddling two continents. The city teems with 12 million people and the constant traffic jams are indicative of the congestion. I spent far too little time at the Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi) which is one of the oldest and largest closed bazaars in the world and is enclosed within a huge labyrinth of 70 twisting streets crammed with more than 4000 shops and restaurants selling leather goods, rugs, ceramics, textiles, jewelry, spices and sweet fruit/nut concoctions called Turkish Delights. Built in 1461, the bazaar grew by covering an increasingly large area of shops and streets with roofs, arches and domes, and it became the centre of trading during the Ottoman period. Caravans of silk traders traditionally stayed here and rested their camels while selling their merchandise. Alas, I was hundreds of years too late to see any camels resting there. After business meetings on Thursday, we went to a post dusk Ramadan "too extraordinary to describe" feast at the Swiss Hotel where a number of us were staying. Another unforgettable experience in a magical city.My Saturday morning was filled by a traditional and unforgettable boat excursion along the Bosphorus. The curling strait separates Asia from Europe and connects the Black Sea to the Marmara Sea. Starting out from Eminonu one can see the Grand Church - Hagia Sophia, spires of the Blue Mosque and fortresses. On the sea shore edge of a park stands the famous Ciragan Palace refurbished in 1874 by Sultan Abdulaziz, and now restored as a luxury hotel and billed as one of the world's most expensive places to spend a night. The Bosphorus Bridge, claims status as one of the world's largest suspension bridges and is a juxtapostion with Istanbul's traditional architecture. I was perfectly content to see the bridge from a distance far below and not have to drive over it!
In the afternoon following the cruise, I went to the Spice Market, a sensory delight that cannot be adequately described by mere words. Mounds of pungent spices, dried fruits and nuts were in abundance within a market that was established during the late 1500's. It was an amazing experience and not one I will soon forget. Knitting knows no language bounds and I encountered a few knitters absorbed in the art at outdoor markets and parks. This woman was using painfully long needles to knit a scarf in an intricate stitch pattern. I suspect Addi Turbo circular knitting needles have not found their way to Turkey yet! An intelligent, vivacious colleague, Pinar picked me up and took me on a tour of Ortakoy which is a popular area for restaurants, nightclubs and architecture. We had delicious baked potatoes topped with cheese, peas, corn, cous cous and several other unidentifiable ingredients. A table featuring hand knitted baby sweaters and creative, decorated baby booties was just one of many showing handcrafted goods at a weekend bazaar in the neighborhood. 33 hours later I was back home in Seattle. Always good to go, always better to get home.

Budapest, Hungary

I arrived in Budapest after a long flight from Seattle to Frankfurt. I had the extreme good fortune of sitting next to another knitter on the first flight (over 10+ hours) She was such an interesting person...grew up in Germany, learned to knit at the age of 4, lived in Guam for 25 years, still involved in the medical profession and doing research on Alzheimer's. Moved to Seattle 6 years ago to be in closer proximity to her two granddaughters. Was on her way to Italy with her husband (who had proposed to her in Venice 47 years ago). What a love story.

Other than United Kingdom and Australia I have never had a problem with getting needles through airport security and knitting on flights destined for locales around the world. Because of a surprising and anxious encounter with a Belgium airport security supervisor's inclination to refuse the knitting needles in my carry on bag a few weeks ago, I am trying to be prepared for any altercation. I had never had trouble in the Brussels airport before, but am wondering if the European airports are now having a change of heart or at least a measure of inconsistency towards my beloved hobby. The only reason the security supervisor let me continue on with my knitting needles was because I told him I had 16 hours of travel ahead of me. I was not above pleading and begging but thankfully I didn't have to resort to those tactics and managed to maintain some of my dignity. For this trip, I put the metal addi's in my checked bag and used wooden KnitPicks needles on the flights. I didn't want to take a chance that they would be confiscated in Frankfurt.

Budapest is regarded as one of the world's most beautiful cities and it was easy to figure out why. Budapest consists of two very different cities - Buda, on the west bank of the Danube River and Pest on the east bank. I took an airport shuttle to my hotel, the Le Meridien on the Pest side which is more commerical in nature and flatter than the hilly Buda side. The hotel was graced with many chandeliers and crystal, which I, of course, have always been delighted by. Thankfully I was upgraded to a hotel suite which had a living area, two bathrooms as well as bedroom area. Unusually large accomodations by European standards. Almost as good as home sweet home!

The next morning I braved the rain to take a walk down Vaci Road to Nagy Vasarcsamok, the Great Market Hall. It was a large building filled with vendors selling meats, fruits and vegetables, spices and hand crafted items such as leather goods, embroidery and wood figurines. Most of my business meetings were in the Northeastern part of the city. Late in the afternoon one day, a colleague and I went over the Chain Bridge to Castle Hill to see the Royal Palace, and Matthias Church. Despite the gloomy weather we could see the huge Parliament Building on the other side of Danube River, described as a neogothic jewel. I would like to come back someday and explore more of the city and go to some of the museums. The city is inviting and the people are very friendly.
On the flight from the US I had begun working on Nihon Vogue, Year Two, Project 1. I only had two projects on needles and was in a panic the night before my trip figuring out what to take with me. I am almost done with the Forest Canopy Shawl and have one sock on size 2 needles. Even though the Nihon class doesn't begin until early October, I wanted to use the time on the flights to get a jump start on the first project. The requirement is to knit set in sleeves that are gathered at the top and "puff up". Hmm. Even though it is the current fashion rage, it is something I would not personally wear. So, I am knitting a child's size garment that is a re-compilation of a Debbie Bliss smock cardigan. I am changing the pattern a bit and then redesigning the drop sleeves to be set in. After business meetings in the morning today I am flying to Istanbul with a 5 hour layover in Frankfurt... so will have plenty of time to work on my computer, read or knit.

Recipe for Supper Salad

Recipe enjoyed while at Camano Island a few weeks ago, included here now since I promised earlier!

Tart-Sweet Supper Salad of Edamame, Green Beans and Sugar Snaps
Copyright 2008 Lynne Rossetto Kasper
Serves 6 to 8

Dressing:
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 cup cider vinegar (use more if needed)
6 generous tablespoons coarse, dark mustard
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
3 packed tablespoons fresh basil leaves
2 to 3 packed tablespoons brown sugar
2/3 cup or more extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

The Salad:
1 large red onion, thinly sliced into rings
Cider vinegar
1 large head Bibb lettuce, washed, spun dry, whole leaves wrapped in paper towels and refrigerated
1-1/4 to 1-1/2 pounds young, tender green beans, cooked to tender crisp
1 pound shelled edamame beans (frozen beans work well), cooked to tender crisp
1 large handful Sugar Snap peas, cut into thirds
4 to 5 cups thinly sliced Napa cabbage
3 large navel oranges, peeled of all rind and cut into chunks
1/2 cup fresh coriander leaves
1/3 cup fresh mint leaves
Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
1. Make the dressing. In a food processor, puree the garlic and vinegar. Let stand 10 minutes while assembling other ingredients. Add all the remaining dressing ingredients to the processor bowl and puree. Taste for a balance of the tart and sweet flavors, and the oil and vinegar; adjust as necessary. If holding dressing more than a couple of hours, turn into a jar and store in the refrigerator. Use at room temperature. Dressing can be made up to 2 days in advance and kept refrigerated.
2. To mellow the red onion's heat, place it in a small bowl and sprinkle with cider vinegar. Let stand so minutes. Drain and pat dry.
3. Pull the salad together on a big platter by gathering the Bibb leaves into several clusters. Scatter half the Napa cabbage over the bottom of the platter around the clusters. Top with half the green beans, and half the edamame and peas. Scatter with the orange segments, onion rings, and all the mint leaves.
4. Top everything with the rest of the cabbage, clusters of green beans tucked here and there, spoonfuls of edamame and peas, and the rest of the orange. Finally, sprinkle on the coriander leaves.
5. Just before serving, stir dressing until well combined.

Recipe for Salmon Saute

Recipe enjoyed while at Camano Island a few weeks ago, included here for your enjoyment. This meal is easy, healthy and absolutely delicious!

Summery Salmon Saute
SERVES 4

1 tablespoon virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 cup sweet onion, chopped
1 sweet red pepper, seeded and chopped
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound skinless salmon fillet, cut in 1 inch strips
2 cups green beans, ends trimmed
2 ears sweet white corn, kernels cut off
1 cup ripe tomatoes, chopped
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup daikon radish sprouts or parsley

Heat oil with garlic in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion and red pepper, sprinkle with salt and black pepper and cook for 2 minutes.
Add fish and green beans, cover pan, reduce heat to low and simmer until opaque when flaked (5-6 minutes; internal temperature should be 136 degrees).
Add corn and cook for 1 minute.
Add tomatoes and cook until warm through (2-3 minutes).
Place in a serving bowl, deglaze hot pan with vinegar, add to fish and toss gently. Garnish with sprouts or parsley and serve.

Bangrila!

The past three days have been spent in a magical part of Washington state. An invite from dear Naomi led me to Bangrila - namesake of a beautiful home on serene Lake Spencer in Mason County. I faced my fear of "high bridges over water" and anxiously made my way over the dreaded Tacoma Narrows Bridge. Driving 42 mph in a 55 mph zone across the scary span with a long caravan of impatient vehicles close behind me. I stopped in Gig Harbor to see Val and Jonas who are longtime friends of my parents. It had been way too many years since I have last seen them. I spent 2 hours catching on the latest news regarding their wonderful sons & special grandchildren as well as sharing updates on my family. They fed me a yummy lunch and gave me some tips for my upcoming business trip to Budapest since Val's brother lives south of that city. It was wonderful to see them. They are so warm, friendly and loving - I definitely need to visit more frequently. It was just the exact warming of my heart that I so sorely needed at the time. I then drove towards Shelton where Bangrila is located. Enroute I stopped at the Knit Shop in Allyn and purchased some gorgeous deep purple yarn from Cascade which had arrived at the store that very day. I also found some chocolate brown buttons that were perfect for the blue striped henley baby sweater I was knitting in place of the abandoned Ladybug sweater. The owner was very friendly and helpful. It was a pleasant store that had a nice selection of yarn and spinning materials. Informed that the rest of my "party" had been to the store a few hours earlier, I headed out for the final leg of my journey to Bangrila.

Once I arrived at Bangrila I found Ellen, Naomi, Sarah and Amy on the back patio, knitting and enjoying the scenic lake view. Sarah had arrived from Michigan a few days earlier and had made the necessary rounds to more than half a dozen of the best local yarn stores. Sarah is the effervescent owner of The Plucky Knitter and the creative force behind the most incredible hand dyed yarns. Lose yourself in her web site at http://www.thepluckyknitter.com/

After Michale arrived that evening, we made dinner and feasted on healthy spaghetti, salad, bread and cheesecake. Amy was generous and shared her $7 chocolate covered bacon candy bar with the rest of us. Naomi showed me how to do a german cast on which is more flexible than the cable cast on I used on the Baby Surprise Jacket. Most exciting is that she and Ellen showed me how to knit socks on two circular needles. I am beside myself with glee. I anticipate a lot more hand knitted socks in my future now that I don't have to tangle with double pointed needles! Ellen is such a fast knitter. I was mesmerized at how fast she could add rows to the sweater she was knitting. The next morning I woke up early and went for a long walk through the woods and on a trail near the lake. Melinda arrived and we all went to a local eatery for lunch. Half of us selected an entree containing Dungeness crab. Not quite as good a substitute as my favorite Alaskan King crab but pretty darn close! Next stop was to be at Fancy Images yarn store in Shelton. The outside of the store is painted cheery colors and the flowers and nearby garden are enchanting. The store had a lot of hand dyed yarn and kits w/blended yarns and custom buttons to make colorful, artistic sweaters and hats for babies. Simply darling. I purchased some buttons and hand painted yarns. I think I have enough yarn now. Someone save me from myself!
The next day found Amy learning to spin using one of Ellen's wheels. She went from being a novice filled with trepidation to skilled confident spinner in no time at all. I was so impressed! Sarah finished the sleeves of her alpaca sweater and modeled it with her fabulous new red shoes. Her dear husband Bob arrived from Michigan and they made plans to leave early the next morning for a week touring other Pacific Northwest venues such as Mt. Rainier and Victoria, BC. Michale made a delicious risotto that was paired with salmon and parmesan coated zucchini. Can I take her home with me?I began knitting a sock on two circulars using hand dyed yarn in Seahawks colors. Midnight blue, medium blue, white and lime green. Fun! Sunday morning a few of us settled in for the Seattle Seahawks versus Buffalo Bills game. Unfortunately the game was not so much fun. Alas, my beloved NFL team lost 10 to 34. And wide receiver Nate Burleson out for the season due to a torn ACL. Yikes. The disasterous game cast nary a shadow over the joyful weekend filled with learning, laughter and comraderie of other knitters. Such a treat. I am so grateful.After leaving Bangrila I drove to Shipwreck Beads in Lacey, outside of Olympia. Anything to avoid a trip over the bridge. Shipwreck Beads is advertised as the "world's largest bead store" and that is no exaggeration. The store is approximately the size of a gymnasium and has numbered aisles, similar to those in a grocery store. There is even an onsite cafe! I purchased Swarovski crystals, beading wire, and strands of clear chinese cut glass, pale aqua bottle glass, coral, jade, onyx and aventurine. I have some necklace and bracelet designs in mind to make but not sure when I will be able to execute on those visions. More yarn than time. More beads than time. The bead store made me recall the first time I had gone on the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disneyland in California almost 30 years ago... I was more enthralled with all the beads strewn about the site than with the special effects created for that ride. That should have been a clue to me way back when! I went to the airport to pick up Rob as he arrived tired but exhilerated from his weeklong bike ride in Colorado. Whimsy dog is happiest when we are all home together. Smile.